Thereare some places I imagine I could blend in, pretty much anywhere Englishspeaking, maybe Argentina or Chile, maybe parts of Europe if I didn’t wearsneakers. Northeast Thailand is definitely not one of them. Not only do I notblend, I stand out. But unlike anywhere else I’ve ever been, no one reallyseems all that interested. A big part of that is probably how many Westernscome to Thailand, whether living here or just passing through. On the otherhand I’m in northeastern Thailand (Khong Chiam outside of Ubon Ratchathani ifyou’re in the mood for googling). This is not on your guide book’s “Top 10things to do in Thailand” list. There are no beaches. There is no one trying tosell you anything or take you on a tour. But still, people seem to notice me,and beyond an extra glance over their shoulder as they walk away, they don’tseem to mind about me, one way or another. It’s actually really nice. It makesbeing more than a head taller than everyone in this little town on the borderof Laos a little easier.
Iwould say that would be my tagline for Thailand so far, it’s an easy place tobe. People are kind and helpful, the food is delicious, fresh and cheap,Although I am in a very rural part of the country the roads are paved and thelights are consistently on, and the little shops have all the necessities youcould need living here (even espresso!). It’s also a beautiful place to be,with the Khong (Mekong) River on one side of our little peninsula and the Mun(Moon) River on the other, it’s stunning in every direction.
Inother places I have found myself constantly apologizing for not speaking thelocal language, and having people dismiss me solely because of it. Hereeveryone is delighted when I nod and point, and at my butchering of Thank Youin Thai. I’m working on it, and they’re more than happy to put the price ofanything on their calculator to show me. People here don’t love me or hate me,they seem to simply be untroubled by my presence. Maybe they’re just beingpolite, but the Canadian in me appreciates some perfunctory politeness. Maybe Ijust don’t know what they’re saying about me because I don’t speak Thai, but Iam more than content to live in a little ignorant bliss for the time being.
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Sojust a little update for everyone who reads this occasionally to keep track ofme, rather than for my keen insight (ha): I’m in Thailand, on the border ofLaos. I was in Bangkok for a few days before coming here, and will be stayinghere until about December 15, when I will return to Bangkok. I’ll leave forhome on December 18th. I’m here working, so it’s unlikely I’ll be able to see anywhere outsideof this rural corner of Thailand, but it looks like I’ll be putting it on mylist of places to visit again. I’m 12 hours ahead of EST and 15 hours ahead ofPST if you feel like calling, just email me for my Thai cell number or catch meonline.
Moreto come!
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Update #2
So it's been 5 weeks and I take it all back. Okay not all of it but most of it. Thailand seeming easy and like no one bothered with me... well that was just in comparison to Angola. Angola is difficult. Thailand is... well it isn't easy. There's just more effort to present a pleasant front I think. Like for instance, when teaching a data collection method to researchers, my first thought of something they could rank (1-5 best to worst, you get the idea) was "Biggest Problems in Luanda" since people already talked about it alllll the time. There was trash and electricity problems, cost of living, traffic and on and on. But here, we went with "Things you like best about Khong Chiam" because everyone's preference is to say positive things, even though there are negative things to say, they just often don't get said. Very interesting and I'm learning, slowly but surely.
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Update #2
So it's been 5 weeks and I take it all back. Okay not all of it but most of it. Thailand seeming easy and like no one bothered with me... well that was just in comparison to Angola. Angola is difficult. Thailand is... well it isn't easy. There's just more effort to present a pleasant front I think. Like for instance, when teaching a data collection method to researchers, my first thought of something they could rank (1-5 best to worst, you get the idea) was "Biggest Problems in Luanda" since people already talked about it alllll the time. There was trash and electricity problems, cost of living, traffic and on and on. But here, we went with "Things you like best about Khong Chiam" because everyone's preference is to say positive things, even though there are negative things to say, they just often don't get said. Very interesting and I'm learning, slowly but surely.
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